Portland restaurant review: Oven & Shaker

Recently, I was given the opportunity to write a restaurant review for Forest Heights Life Magazine a Portland neighborhood-specific monthly magazine owned and operated by a friend of mine. I jumped at the opportunity to contribute to this established publication, and to submit an objective piece on a downtown restaurant- a place I rarely go for food or drinks- {I’m an east side kinda gal} … Enjoy!

Photos courtesy of: Beth Olson Creative

Located in the heart of the Pearl District, you will find a new take on an old classic at Portland’s own Oven & Shaker. Headed by three of  Rose City’s most well-known restaurant leaders, Oven & Shaker has a simple and savory menu that highlights the best of Italian street food and wood-burning oven pizza. The exposed kitchen gives guests a delightful glimpse into the poetic process of dough tossing and the evident camaraderie amongst the kitchen staff.

If the authentic crust is the reason you walk through the doors, the extensive and innovative drink menu is why you stay, and perhaps stay longer than you intended. Portland native and esteemed bartender, Ryan Magarian, offers patrons an intriguing list of libations that appeals to every taste. His hand-crafted menu offers drinks from three categories: fresh, dry, and strong, as well as a rotating drink special. The first round had us enjoying two very different styles of drinks, each showcasing the versatility of citrus. My first drink incorporated Flor de Cana rum, fresh squeezed lime juice, and Stumptown coffee liqueur into a refreshing, well-constructed beverage. My sister ordered a classic Old Fashioned featuring Buffalo Trace bourbon, simple syrup, bitters, and lemon and orange oils. It’s amazing what a little vitamin C and quality spirits can do for curing the Pacific Northwest winter blues!

The Nostrana arrived halfway through our first round, a radicchio salad with Parmigiano, rosemary-sage croutons, and a caesar style dressing. One salad was more than enough for both of us, but we made sure not to leave anything behind on our plate. Next came the Arancini, simply put, stuffed rice balls. Wild mushroom risotto, smoked mozzarella, and tomato ragu complemented the salad and prepared us for the main course.

We watched in hungry anticipation as our pizza was removed from the oven and placed in front of us at the bar. Tomato, broccoli rabe, basil, lemon, and shitake mushrooms surrounded impressive placements of goat cheese, and we eagerly devoured every bite.

We chose to be adventurous with our second round of drinks; my sister ordered the Breakfast in Bed drink special, a boozy, maple syrup concoction. As I looked over the menu, she pointed out a nondescript line of text stating, “ask your server about our secret menu”. I was handed a simple black binder filled with page after page of vintage drinks dating back to the 1920s and 1930s, a Ryan Magarian nod to the history and craft of mixology. I ordered the Brown Derby, a smokey flavored drink infused with grapefruit juice. Each sip revealed a more complex and ever-changing palette -I recommend this drink for the flavor adventurer, and it’s fun to think that 90 years ago folks were enjoying this same drink.

Oven & Shaker will appeal to the unassuming foodie as well as the arbiter of cocktails. On any given evening plan on seeing couples, families, and groups of friends enjoying what this restaurant does best. You owe it to yourself to visit this gem in the Pearl District, and to stay longer than you should.

A Birthday Feast for the Eyes

December 1st has come and gone, yet what do we really know about this noblest of days? It is the gateway day to all other holidays occurring this month, with out the 1st, you have no other days. Also, it’s my birthday! After some snooping, I found that several noteworthy events also happened on this very day: World AIDS Day happens every year on this day, and held its first event in 1988. The game of BINGO is “created”.  Although variations have existed for centuries and the actual date and year vary depending on where you read, let’s just say it was December 1st, approximately 1929. Rosa Parks is infamously arrest in 1955 on this day, while refusing to give up her seat to a white passenger on a bus in Montgomery, Alabama. Pablo Escobar, notorious drug lord and cocaine kingpin, also born on this day in 1949. And perhaps the most thrilling of events, Michael Jackson releases Thriller (see what I did there??) on December 1st, 1982. Best birthday ever.

Fast forward a few years, and here I am writing about my most recent birthday adventure. I wanted to experience something new in my city and asked my sister to join me. She also happens to be an exceptional photographer and owns her own business, Beth Olson Creative. Because December tends to be an indulgent month for most, I wanted to ensure that this first day was no different. We pursued decadence of the chocolate persuasion, and Portland certainly does not disappoint.

Our first stop was The Meadow , a boutique gourmet salt and chocolate shop which also showcases an impressive choice of bitters, fresh flowers, and wine. My god! Why would we need to go any where else? The bottles and chocolates that lined the wood shelving resembled a charming European apothecary, and I left with 0.6oz bottle of Alaska Alder Smoked salt.

Beautiful and fresh, the flowers at The Meadow are a welcomed sight in December.

One of many choices of gourmet salts to choose from.

I’m very intrigued with this wall of salt, and I want to sample them all!

Our second and third destinations had nothing to do with chocolate, but everything to do with getting a pre-lunch drink or two. The Doug Fir Lounge has a modernist log cabin theme, with ample bar seating, and fireplaces located inside, and out on the patio. The downstairs lounge is a music venue which hosts local and international musicians and acts. And it’s sexy as hell!

The Doug Fir’s famous glowing floors. credit: flickr user Beyond Neon

My sister and I shared the eggs benedict with polenta, and I ordered a spicy, fully loaded Bloody Mary- meat, pickled veggies, booooooze.

Notice all the spicy, fully loaded action!

About half way through my Bloody Mary I had to leave for a quick appointment at Wax On Spa Portland, the East Burnside location, just 2 blocks down. The esthetician on duty was adorable and very friendly and informed me that I would receive a shot of whiskey for booking a service. 15 minutes later-upper lip smooth, belly warm- I rejoin my sister and we head out to consume more chocolate.

Icons, Bon Bons, Bars, Toffee & Bark, Caramel Sauces. This my friends, is Portland’s own Alma Handmade Chocolates, located in the Kerns neighborhood on NE 28th Ave. I will let the photos do the talking, but I will say this: eat the Thai peanut butter cup. Just put the whole damn thing in your mouth.

Let the party begin.

It is exactly like a kid in a candy shop.

Gold-leafed Icons.

Thai peanut butter cup and a pistachio inspired treat.

Next, we entered the den of the devil: Cacao. Straight from their website, “Cacao features a hand picked selection of chocolate from around the world, including the best premium solid chocolate bars from small producers, select chocolate from the best local chocolatiers and North American makers, and our house-made drinking and hot chocolates.” 

Cacao, 712 SW Salmon St. PDX

We savor a trio of drinking chocolates. Absolute decadence in a convenient 3oz cup.

Drinking chocolate does not come in liquid form.

As I put this post together, I can recall how magical a cup of drinking chocolate can be. I recommend you all go out and try it immediately, and Cacao has some tasty recipes on their website to make at home!

“We have beautiful, mature wines from most anywhere!”

Our quickest stop was at Martinotti’s Cafe & Deli downtown Portland on SW 10th Ave. I was expecting a thriving Italian cafe, with gelato and wine flowing, but what we encountered instead was a sad little shop that needed some TLC! The potential is there, I just hope the owners will see it and breath life back into this darling location. I spied a grand wood bar in the back that was just dying to be polished and sat at again, but was currently being used to hold boxes. Sigh.

Interesting Italian products at every turn.

We quickly decided we needed a drink after that disappointment, and crossed the street to Clyde Common, an open tavern style bar, showcasing a rotating menu of fresh and local NW foods. But we came for a drink. And as anyone who has turned 33 years old knows, the only appropriate drink for a day such as this, is a Manhattan. It literally made me feel like a better person.

Life affirming drinks at Clyde Common.

It’s obvious that birthdays can be indulgent and a little over the top when it comes to how the day is planned. However, the idea for this day began with my interest in wanting to try out some new places in my city. I narrowed it down to a few things I enjoy: chocolate, booze, walking. I mixed in a few of my favorite spots with some new ones, and the day turned out brilliant. So I challenge you, dear readers, to discover one new place in your neighborhood or city this weekend. Invite a friend and you can split any costs at the bar/cafe/show. Remember, you can also head over to a new park or take a stroll through that ridiculously extravagant neighborhood you have never been to- they’re gonna have the ultimate Christmas decorations! Leave a comment and let me know what you discover!

Next time on Graveyard Shift Travel: I will recap a few of my microadventures from around the city, AND I have an exciting house sitting assignment coming up at the very end of the month!

“Y NO ME DIGAS POBRE POR IR VIAJANDO ASI. NO VES QUE ESTOY CONTENTA? NO VES QUE VOY FELIZ?”